PARO: On our drive from Punakha to Paro, we visited Tachoglhakhang or Tachogang Lhakhang, just after Isuna village and before Chhuzom, on the base of a mountain across the Pa chu river. It was built in the early 15th century by the great master architect and yogi Thangtong Gyalpo(1385-1464), who also built Dungtse Lhakhang in Paro and many iron bridges (around 108) throughout Bhutan and Tibet. Tachogang means temple of the hill of the excellent horse. It is said that while Thangtong Gyalpo was meditating here, he had a vision of the spiritual horse Balaha-an emanation of Avalokiteshvara. He decided there upon to build a temple at this spot, in addition to one of his famous iron bridges later carried away by floods in 1969.

A traditional style bridge with iron chains was restored in 2005. The temple is privately run by the descendants of Thangtong Gyalpo. Drupthob Thangtong Gyalpo was the man who built the iron chain bridges in Bhutan. Many of them are still in use today, showing how strong and durable the bridges are. The Dzong is relatively small and has many fruit trees, orange and apple, around and inside of it. The people who take care of the Dzong also herd cattle, and can be seen caring for them. We stopped by for some of the most authentic hand tossed wood fire oven pizzas at Authentic Pizza in Paro. Those who want to get a taste of Paro’s night life, can head to Club Insomnia where the night hawks start trickling in only post 10.30 pm. There’s also Club K and Millennium Club that play English music and have a dance floor. There are also smaller pubs like Menjong Drayang and others where they play Bhutanese music and the place is dark and dingy with a small stage where a Bhutanese boy and girl are seen shaking a leg to some peppy local music.

 

Taktsang Monastery or the Tiger’s Nest – We saved the best for the last. You cannot leave Bhutan without a trek to the Tiger’s Nest monastery. And on our last day before heading back home, we trekked up the most important spiritual site in this part of the world. Located at an elevation of over 10,000 feet, Taktsang is the birthplace of Bhutanese Buddhism. The hike up to Taktsang Monastery, also known as Tiger’s Nest that hangs precariously and magically from a rather steep cliff and is a monument of genuine pride for the Bhutanese nation will always be memorable. It defies architectural principles to the core and is a sight to behold. Taktsang or the Tigers lair as the monastery is called is associated with the visit of Guru Padmasambhava, the revered Indian saint who came to Bhutan in the 8th century AD. The cave was named Taktsang after Guru Rinpoche flew into the cave from Tachogang Lhakhang Kurtoe Singye Dzong in eastern Bhutan while riding on a tigress. When he landed in the cave, he took the wrathful form of Guru Dorji Drolo who is regarded as one of the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche to decimate the demons. Several saints have chosen this sanctuary to pray and meditate in solitude. The monastery was built in 1692 by Gyalse Tenzin Rabgaye who is said to be one of the reincarnations of Guru Rinpoche. The Monastery consists of four main temples along with their residences that are constructed along the rock ledge. There are eight caves in total out of which four are relatively easy to access. The monastery was ravaged by fire twice in the 1900s first in 1951 and later the fire of 1998, which nearly destroyed the monastery completely. The government then undertook a comprehensive reconstruction in 200 with funding from foreign donors. The monastery was recreated to its original splendor and re-opened shortly thereafter. From the road, the hike toward Taktshang follows an uphill route and takes approximately five hours at an average walking pace on a clear, sunny day.

Later we hiked to the Kyichu Lhakhang, the Jowo Temple of Kyichu that is one of the oldest temples in Bhutan. The temple was built by the Tibetan King Songsten Gampo in the 7th century AD. The Kyichu Lhakhang was one of the 108 temples constructed by him to subdue a demon that was terrorising the people of the Himalayas. The temple is believed to have been visited by the Guru Rinpoche in the 8th Century during his visit to the Paro Valley. Other important personalities to have visited the temple in antiquity include Lam Kha Nga and the Phajo Dugom Zhigpo. The Lhakahng underwent many extensions during the ages with the last one being carried out in 1965 by the Queen Mother Ashi Kezang Choden Wangchuck. She added another new structure to the temple called the Guru Lhakahng. As one of the oldest Lhakahangs, it houses many important relics. One of the most important relics of the temple is a 7th century statue of Jowo Sakyamuni which is believed to have cast at the same time as it famous counterpart in Lhasa Tibet. There are two orange trees located in the courtyard of the temple. There is a belief amongst the locals that these orange trees bear fruit all year long. This site is one of the most sacred holy sites in all of Bhutan. Drukchoeding – Also known as Tshongdoe Naktshang, this temple was built by Ngawang Chhogyel, who was a prince of Ralung and the ancestor of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, in 1525. In the temple, there is a statue of the Future Buddha known as Jampa in the seated position. There is also an image of the deity known as Gyenyen who is the protector of Bhutan. Gyenyen is surrounded by a collection of ancient swords, shields and other weaponry. The Dumtse Lhabhang temple is very unique in its design as it is designed like a Chorten (Stupa). The temple was built in the 1443 AD by Kyichu Lhakhang. Dumtse Lhakhang – Thantong Gyalpo, known as the iron bridge builder in Bhutanese legend. The Dumatse Lhakhang is built over 3 levels that represent the 3 spiritual realms of earth i.e. Hell, Earth and Heaven. The walls of the Dumtse Lhakhang are decorated in beautiful hand-painted murals that depict these three realms of earth. These beautiful murals are regarded as some of the finest examples of Bhutanese art in the country. When in Bhutan do what the Bhutanese do. Infact, I went a step ahead and dressed in the traditional Bhutanese costume – the Kira, a long, ankle-length dress with an outer jacket called Tego and an inner layer called Wonju. After a day of trekking and soul stirring views, we ate our last Bhutanese meal to our heart’s content, cooked with love and slept like a log at the comfortable Tenzinling Resort in Paro. The next morning before we headed to the airport, we made sure we packed in some happiness to bring back home till as long as it lasts.

Photo courtesy: Lensation Simran Gupta